Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and securely block the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling, then jack up the front and place it on jackstands, ensuring not to get under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Drain the engine oil and remove the catalytic converter, noting that the bracket supporting the rear end of the converter outlet pipe bolts to the oil pan, which should also be removed. Take out the bolts securing the axleshaft bracket to the engine and the bolt for the coolant tube, then unbolt the oil pan from the engine and lower it carefully, using a rubber mallet if necessary, while avoiding prying between the pan and engine block to prevent damage. Remove the gasket from the oil pan and unbolt the oil strainer from the 
Oil Pump if needed. Clean all traces of the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the oil pan and engine block with a plastic scraper, being cautious not to scratch the aluminum surfaces, and wipe them clean with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone. Install the oil strainer with a new gasket and tighten the bolts securely, then place a new oil pan gasket in the pan, ensuring the tabs are fully pressed into the gasket channel. Apply a 1/8-inch bead of silicone sealant to the corners of the block and where the oil pump meets the crankshaft rear seal-retainer, making sure to install the oil pan within 10 minutes after applying the sealant. Position the oil pan on the engine, install the pan-to-engine bolts, and tighten them in a criss-cross pattern, followed by retightening the oil pan-to-transaxle bolts. Complete the installation by reversing the removal steps and check the oil level on the dipstick, running the engine to check for leaks.