When the EVAP system works, it holds back fuel vapor gases that aren't burned in the engine from entering the air we breathe. When it's warm outside, fuel vapors in the tank push up against the sealing cap, and when the pressure hits its limit, the fuel vapor vent valve lets these vapors escape in a controlled way down to the EVAP canister for temporary storage before being burned up while the car is running normally. The PCM first opens the canister purge valve when it detects certain circumstances, and then pulls fuel vapors from the canister into the engine's intake system. The EVAP canister, found under the vehicle against the left side, uses activated carbon to store fuel vapors without needing any upkeep. Along with the check valve and dust separator, the canister vent solenoid makes up the system together. The fuel tank pressure sensor senses the pressure inside the tank and tells the PCM what the reading is when it does an OBD-II leak test. The fuel vapor vent valve helps vapors enter the EVAP system, while the fuel vapor control valve keeps liquid fuel from reaching the canister when we fuel up. The canister vent solenoid stays open to let air through, but blocks the system during checks. The EVAP check valve lets out air from the tank during refueling. The PCM tells the canister purge valve when to let vapor move into the intake manifold. Problems with the EVAP system show themselves when you smell fuel, your car has trouble staying running, and pulls to one side while you drive, all caused by different system components going wrong. We can find out if fuel vapor pressure is too high by taking off the gas cap and listening to any air pressure that releases. Replacing the PCM needs us to turn off the battery, take off the parts that must be handled, then put and wire the PCM back in correctly to make it work well.