Ford 4C3Z-6375-AA Flywheel Assembly

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transmission. If there's a leak, it's a good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring for automatic transmissions. For manual transmission vehicles, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc, and check or replace the clutch components and pilot bearing. Look for factory paint marks indicating flywheel-to-crankshaft alignment; if absent, use a center-punch or paint to create alignment marks on both the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft. Remove the bolts securing the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft, using a prybar or flywheel-holding tool as necessary to prevent the crankshaft from turning. Carefully remove the flywheel/driveplate, supporting it while removing the last bolt. Clean the flywheel with brake cleaner, inspecting for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas, and score marks, and check for damaged ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface to check for warpage with a straightedge. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft, replacing the crankshaft rear seal if it's leaking. Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft, aligning the marks made during removal, and apply Teflon thread sealant to the bolt threads before installation. Use a flywheel-holding tool or a screwdriver to keep the flywheel/driveplate from turning while tightening the bolts to the specified torque. Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transmission. If it's leaking, now would be a very good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring. Look for factory paint marks that indicate driveplate-to-crankshaft alignment; if they aren't there, use a center-punch or paint to make alignment marks on the driveplate and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during reinstallation. Remove the bolts that secure the driveplate to the crankshaft; if the crankshaft turns, use a flywheel holding tool or wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to jam the driveplate. Remove the driveplate from the crankshaft and check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the driveplate and the crankshaft; if the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the driveplate. Position the driveplate against the crankshaft, ensuring the crankshaft sensor ring is positioned between the driveplate and the engine, and align the marks made during removal. Note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque, and the remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transmission; if it's leaking, now is a good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring for automatic transmissions. For manual transmission vehicles, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc, and consider checking or replacing the clutch components and pilot bearing. Look for factory paint marks indicating flywheel-to-crankshaft alignment; if absent, use a center-punch or paint to create alignment marks to ensure correct positioning during reinstallation. Remove the bolts securing the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft, using a prybar through a hole on automatic transmissions to prevent the crankshaft from turning. If the crankshaft turns, use a flywheel-holding tool or jam a screwdriver through the starter opening. For manual-shift transmission flywheels, insert two bolts into the extra threaded holes and tighten them evenly to force the flywheel off the crankshaft. Carefully remove the flywheel/driveplate, supporting it while removing the last bolt. Clean the flywheel with brake cleaner, inspecting for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas, and score marks, with light scoring removable using emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth, and lay the flywheel on a flat surface to check for warpage with a straightedge. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft, replacing the crankshaft rear seal if leaking before reinstalling. Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft, aligning the marks made during removal, and note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes for correct installation. Apply Teflon thread sealant to the bolt threads before tightening them to the specified torque while using a flywheel holding tool or a screwdriver to prevent movement. Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure.

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal and raise the vehicle, supporting it securely on jackstands. Remove the transmission, noting that on models with automatic transmissions, the driveplate-to-torque converter bolts can be accessed through a large rubber plug on the right rear of the engine block. Look for factory paint marks indicating driveplate-to-crankshaft alignment; if absent, scribe or paint marks to ensure correct alignment during reassembly. Remove the bolts securing the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft, using a flywheel retaining tool to prevent the crankshaft from turning while loosening the bolts, which number six on REP engines and eight on WEP engines. Carefully remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft, supporting it while removing the last bolt. If the reinforcement plate was removed, reinstall it correctly for starter installation. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the driveplate and crankshaft, replacing the crankshaft rear seal if it is leaking. Check for any cracked, broken, or missing ring gear teeth, replacing the flywheel/driveplate if necessary. Install the flywheel/driveplate to the engine, aligning the marks made during removal, and apply Teflon thread sealant to the bolt threads before tightening them to the specified torque using a flywheel retaining tool. Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure.