Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transmission; if it's leaking, now is a good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring for automatic transmissions. For manual transmission vehicles, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc, and consider checking or replacing the clutch components and pilot bearing. Look for factory paint marks indicating flywheel-to-crankshaft alignment; if absent, use a center-punch or paint to create alignment marks to ensure correct positioning during reinstallation. Remove the bolts securing the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft, using a prybar through a hole on automatic transmissions to prevent the crankshaft from turning. If the crankshaft turns, use a flywheel-holding tool or jam a screwdriver through the starter opening. For manual-shift transmission flywheels, insert two bolts into the extra threaded holes and tighten them evenly to force the flywheel off the crankshaft. Carefully remove the flywheel/driveplate, supporting it while removing the last bolt. Clean the flywheel with brake cleaner, inspecting for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas, and score marks, with light scoring removable using emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth, and lay the flywheel on a flat surface to check for warpage with a straightedge. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft, replacing the crankshaft rear seal if leaking before reinstalling. Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft, aligning the marks made during removal, and note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes for correct installation. Apply Teflon thread sealant to the bolt threads before tightening them to the specified torque while using a flywheel holding tool or a screwdriver to prevent movement. Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure.