Ford BXT-65-650 Battery

To disconnect the battery, first remove both cables, starting with the ground cable to avoid shorting. Remember, the vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles after reconnection for smooth operation. Next, remove the bolt and wedge to lift out the heavy battery, using lifting straps if needed. If necessary, remove the battery tray bolts for component access. Reinstallation is the reverse of removal.

Disconnect both cables from the battery terminals. This can be done by removing the cable from a battery post with a wrench. Sometimes special battery pliers are required for this procedure if corrosion has caused deterioration of the nut hex. Always remove the ground cable first and hook it up last. If equipped, remove the heat shield from the top of the battery. Remove the bolt and wedge from the battery tray. This involves removing the bolt and the battery hold down clamp which secures the base of the battery to the battery tray. Lift out the battery, but be careful as it's heavy. Special lifting straps that attach to the battery posts are available at auto parts stores. Lifting and moving the battery is much easier if you use one. If necessary for access to other components, remove the bolts that secure the battery tray. On 1995 and later models, the battery tray is mounted on the driver's side of the vehicle and is fastened by three retaining bolts. On 1994 and earlier models, the battery tray is mounted on the passenger side of the vehicle and is fastened by four retaining bolts, two upper and two lower retaining bolts. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Maintaining the battery is very important especially if one finds themselves stuck because of a dead battery, for which some tools are used. Engine must always be off as well as all accessories to prevent a back-feed of electricity into the vehicle, and also remove the cable from the negative terminal. A sealed battery, which is fitted as standard, does not need electrolyte checks or water additions but if an aftermarket battery that needs topping up is fitted, check the electrolyte level in each cell and top up if necessary using distilled water. Examine whether there are signs of damage on the positive terminal and cable clamp and examine the external condition of the battery for crack, and while checking insulation damages ensure that the cable clamps are tightly installed. Corrosion, if formed, should be removed; cables should be cleaned and reinserted so that the contact is made with a clean surface. Reduce corrosion by using treated washers or by using petroleum jelly on the terminals. Make certain the battery carrier is not seriously rusted, and the hold-down clamp bolt is tight; remove rust from the battery carrier and nearby regions using a mixture of water and baking soda. Sacrificed metal parts should be overplayed with an anticorrosive and painted. For charging, if using cells remove the caps or cover the terminals, connect the charger leads in a right way, always making sure the charger is at 12 volts. Be careful with the battery and its charging, especially if the rate is high, and use a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity, if the battery has caps. Hydrometers are built-in in batteries with sealed tops to display the charge status; batteries devoid of this feature should be checked by digital voltmeter where full charged battery should read 12.6 volts and above.

Start your battery work by disconnecting both cables from their terminals, making sure you pull the ground cable first and the other cable last. If your vehicle has it, remove the heat shield from the top of the battery. Take out the bolt and wedge from the battery tray, together with the hold down clamp that keeps the battery in place on the bottom edge. Gently take off the battery by using special straps that make moving it much simpler. You'll need to take out the bolts that anchor the battery tray if you want to reach other parts. Note that our 1994 and older units have a tray on the passenger side, which is secured with four retainer bolts. Installation is the reverse of removal.

To begin work on the vehicle, turn off the engine and all accessories and remove the cable from the negative terminal. Sealed batteries do not require a check of the electrolyte or adding water. In batteries that need maintenance, ensure there is enough distilled water in each cell by inspecting its level of electrolyte. Investigate damage to battery condition, cable clamp, and positive terminal. Apply petroleum jelly or grease on top and tighten hold-down clamp bolt to prevent corrosion. Apply primer and paint to damaged metal parts then clean off corrosion with baking soda solution and water. If you keep the battery in a vehicle for charging purposes, remove cables. A good rating of a slow charger does not exceed 3 amperes. Over the twelve to sixteen-hour process of charging, lead covers should be removed from vent caps, connect charger leads onto battery posts while watching out for overheating.

This should always be followed to avoid short circuiting the battery with the tool that has been used to loosen the clamp on the cable. There are some systems on the vehicle which need constant connection to battery to retain operation or control unit memory. These systems are one way or the other connected to the battery and once the connection is removed then there is no electricity supplied to them, for instance in vehicles with power door locks it is advisable to remove the key form the ignition before disconnecting the battery. Measures such as using what is referred to as 'memory savers' should be done since they 'prevent' problems by supplying electrical power to such areas as the 'audio unit security codes and memory' whenever the car battery is disconnected. To remove the battery for servicing turn the nut on the end of the cable and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal position the end of the cable away from the terminal while servicing.

First of all, a regular preventive maintenance program is needed to enable quick and reliable starts of your vehicle's battery. Whenever you are not driving, switch off the engine and accessories as well as disconnect the negative terminal and keep sparks and flames away from the battery. Also, the battery produces flammable hydrogen gas and contains corrosive sulfuric acid, so handle it with care and wear protective glasses. Look for corrosion, cracks, loose connections, clean clamps using warm water or baking soda. Ensure that you check if there are any signs of damage on the terminals before putting them back into place. Use a slow-rate charger to restore a discharged battery following instructions provided.

Start by disconnecting both cables from the battery terminals.

Avoid overtightening.

A trickle charger usually takes approximately 12-16 hours for a full charge.

A battery cannot be accurately tested until it is at or near a fully charged state.

Slow-rate charging with a one or two-amp battery charger is recommended.

Disconnecting the negative cable first helps avoid sparks that can cause the battery to explode.

When examining the battery's external condition, you should check for damage, corrosion, loose connections, cracks, and the condition of hold-down clamps.

Memory-savers are devices that can be used to avoid cutting off power to certain systems when the battery is disconnected. They are plugged into the cigarette lighter and connected to a spare battery, providing sufficient current to maintain audio unit security codes, PCM memory, and power to always hot circuits such as the clock and radio memory circuits.

To install the battery, simply reverse the removal process.

To install the battery, simply reverse the removal process.