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Genuine Ford Valve Stem Seal
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67 Valve Stem Seals found
Product Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals, Valve Spring Retainers
- Replaces: 1S7Z-6571-BA, 1S7Z-6571-EA
Product Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
Product Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem
- Replaces: F1HZ-6049-A, E43Z-6571-A, FOTZ-6049-K
Ford Valve Stem Seal
Part Number: BL3Z-6571-A$2.63 MSRP: $3.75You Save: $1.12 (30%)Ships in 1-3 Business DaysProduct Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
- Manufacturer Note: 4 Per Package
- Replaces: 7T4Z-6571-AA
Ford Valve Stem Seal
Part Number: BR3Z-6571-B$1.36 MSRP: $1.93You Save: $0.57 (30%)Ships in 1 Business DayProduct Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
- Manufacturer Note: 8 Per Package
Ford Valve Stem Seal
Part Number: 3L3Z-6571-DA$5.08 MSRP: $7.23You Save: $2.15 (30%)Ships in 1 Business DayProduct Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
- Manufacturer Note: SEAL, VALVE STEM
- Replaces: 3L3Z-6571-CA
Ford Valve Stem Seal
Part Number: HL3Z-6571-A$1.53 MSRP: $2.18You Save: $0.65 (30%)Ships in 1 Business DayProduct Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
Ford Valve Stem Seal
Part Number: F4AZ-6571-A$6.28 MSRP: $9.38You Save: $3.10 (34%)Ships in 1-3 Business DaysProduct Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
- Replaces: F4AZ-6049-A, F3AZ-6049-A
Ford Valve Stem Seal
Part Number: 3S4Z-6571-A$5.01 MSRP: $7.13You Save: $2.12 (30%)Ships in 1-3 Business DaysProduct Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals, Valve Spring Retainers
- Replaces: 3S4Z-6571-AA, 1S7Z-6571-FA
Ford Valve Stem Seal
Part Number: BM5Z-6571-A$2.50 MSRP: $3.57You Save: $1.07 (30%)Ships in 1-3 Business DaysProduct Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
Ford Valve Stem Seal
Part Number: BC3Z-6571-A$3.31 MSRP: $4.72You Save: $1.41 (30%)Ships in 1-3 Business DaysProduct Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
Ford Valve Stem Seal
Part Number: 3C3Z-6571-AA$11.83 MSRP: $15.55You Save: $3.72 (24%)Ships in 1-3 Business DaysProduct Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
- Manufacturer Note: SEAL ASM VALVE
- Product Specifications
- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
Product Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
- Manufacturer Note: Use with FC3Z-6513-A Valve Spring Only
- Product Specifications
- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Intake Valve Seals, Valve Seals
Product Specifications- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Exhaust Valve Seals, Valve Seals
- Replaces: E5ZZ-6571-A
- Product Specifications
- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Exhaust Valve Seals, Valve Seals
- Product Specifications
- Other Name: Seal - Valve Stem; Valve Seals
- Replaced by: E8AZ-6571-A
- Product Specifications
- Other Name: Valve Seals; Exhaust Valve, Exhaust Valve Seals, Intake Valve
- Replaced by: F2TZ-6571-A
Product Specifications- Other Name: SEAL - VALVE STEM; Valve Seals, Valve Spring Retainers
- Replaces: FT4Z-6571-A, JT4Z-6571-B
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1-20 of 67 Results
Ford Valve Stem Seal Parts Questions & Experts Answers
- Q: Can broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals be replaced without removing the cylinder heads in 4.0L pushrod V6 engine on Ford Explorer?A:Exhaust and intake valve springs may be replaced with the cylinder heads in the car, though they may need to be removed if the seats or seals on the stems have worn; replacement of these usually requires two specialized tools and compressed air. In case compressed air is not available, a piece of nylon rope can be employed such as to keep the valves from falling inside the cylinder. First, take off the valve cover of the cylinder head, which unfortunately need to be changed, and if all the valve stem seals are being replaced, the two covers. The next step is to remove the spark plug which will be located within the cylinder containing the faulty part ; if changing all seals this will require the removal of all spark plugs. Rotary the crankshaft in such a manner that the piston in the required cylinder is on the TDC of the compression stroke starting with cylinder no 1 and then following the firing sequence. Place the adapter to the spark plug hole, then attach the other end of the air hose to the compressed air. It is recommended that rocker assembly of the failed side be pulled off and, if replacing all the seals, remove both of them. To do this, the compressor should be connected to the cylinder, the valves should be secured in place in the cylinder. Have to use shop rags to block such holes on the cylinder head so that none of the parts drops inside the engine. Loosen the machine by rotating a valve spring adjuster and squeezing the valve spring by a valve spring compressor. After you have had your spring retainer and your valve spring removed, you also have to remove the valve stem seal. If the pressure of air does not shut the valve then the face or the seat of the valve is likely to be chafed, requiring the cylinder head to be pulled for repairs. Place the tip of the valve stem in the slot and wind a rubber band or some tape around the stem head to avoid it falling into the combustion chamber, then discharge the pressure. Check the valve stem for damage and the movement should be smooth without having to force the stem within the guide. Apply air pressure to maintain the closure of the valve and then, remove the tape or rubber or any such band. Cover the valve stem with engine oil and then put a new stem seal by using the seal installer tool. Align the spring over the valve; fit the valve spring retainer; compress the spring and the valve stem locks are put in while a drop of grease is used to hold the locks firmly. Release the pressure from the spring tool and make sure that the lock are properly positioned. Remove the air hose and take off the adapter from the spark plug hole and put in the rocker arm assembly, the spark plug or plugs with the wire, or wires and valve covers as appropriate. Last but not the least, turn on the ignition and look for the signs of oil dripping down on areas aside the valve cover and any strange sounds emanating from the areas.
- Q: Can broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals be replaced without removing the cylinder head in 3.0L V6 engine on Ford Ranger?A:Valve springs get broken while valve stem seals become defective; these can be repaired without having to remove the cylinder head; usually, it takes two special tools and compressed air. If compressed air is not available then it is recommended to use a length of nylon rope to stop the valves from falling in the cylinder. To start with, unbolt the valve cover from the corresponding cylinder head and, if all the valve stem seals are going to be replaced, take off both. Subsequently, examine the particular cylinder incorporating the defective element and remove the spark plug; if replacing all seals, eradicate all spark plugs. They rotate the crankshaft until the piston of the particular cylinder, which is to be checked, is at the top dead center on TDC of the compression stroke, although it must be noted that it is done cylinder by cylinder in the firing order. Insert an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an airline to compressed air. Loosen the bolt at the top of the valve, the pivot and rocker arm, and the pushrod of the valve with the defective part. Use air pressure at the cylinder to maintain the position of the valves. When using the nylon rope, place the piston at about 450 between TDC, string through the spark plug hole then turn the crankshaft in an anti-clockwise direction until some resistance is met. Also, to avoid dropping some parts inside the engine, stuff shop rags into the cylinder head holes When using the spring/damper tool, remove the compressors on the keepers. Whenever pressure fails to keep the valve shut you are likely to see the face or the seat of the valve suffer considerable damage, which may call for the entire cylinder head to be removed to allow access to other repair procedures. Tape a rubber band or stick a strip of tape onto the end of the valve stem so that it won't drop in to the combustion chamber then relieve the air pressure. Check the valve stem for any signs of wear or of seizing in the guide and if it is the case, the head will have to be taken off for servicing. Applying pressure on the air to keep the valve closed and untie the tape or rubber band which was used. The next step is to add engine oil to the valve stem then put a new seal to the guide and be certain that the appropriate seal is utilized for each valve. Place the spring/damper assembly over the valve, then, the valve spring retainer should be fitted and compressed. Place the keepers in the upper groove and if needed use the grease to keep the keepers in place and then release the pressure on the spring tool. Slacken the connecting air hose and withdraw the adapter out of the spark plug hole or jerk out the rope if utilized. Last but not the least reinstall the rocker arm and pushrod and tighten the bolts, then fix the spark plug and wires and finally fit the valve cover before starting the engine and check for oil leaks or any unusual sound emanating from the valve cover region.
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