Mercury E6TZ-6571-A Valve Stem Seal

Cylinder head removal is not always necessary to replace broken valve springs and or defective valve stem seals as these jobs usually require the use of only two tools and compressed air. In absence of compressed air one can use a length of nylon rope so that the valves do not fall into the cylinder. Start with the elimination of the valve cover of the cylinder head in question and, if all valve stem seals are to be changed, both covers should be removed. Second, take off the spark plug of the cylinder containing the faulty component and if replacing all seals thus take off all spark plugs. Operate the crankshaft in a circular manner until the piston in the damaged cylinder is aligned at the top dead center on the compression stroke; do this cylinder by cylinder starting with cylinder one in the firing order sequence 1-4-2-5-3-6. Insert a spark plug thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose to it from a compressed air. If compressed air is not available, place the piston just prior to top dead center of the compression stroke and insert a long length of nylon string through the spark plug hole and into the combustion chamber until all of but one end of the string is pulled out for removal. Jam the shop rag into the cylinder head holes so that parts do not go into the engine, and using valve spring compressor, compress the spring/damper, then remove the keepers with the tips of a needle-nose plier or magnet. Pull off the spring retainer or rotator, the sleeve, the valve spring and the guide seal. If air pressure is not sufficient to close the valve it will cause valve face or the seat to wear and to address this; you will have to remove the cylinder head. Put a rubber band or tape around the upper part of the valve stem so it does not fall into the combustion chamber and then deflate the tire. Check for such things as on the valve stem that the head should not bind in the guide; if it does, the head will require removal to be fixed. Put the air pressure back on to lock the valve shut, then take out the tape or rubber band. Use a drop of engine oil on the valve stem and fit a new rubber suction cup to the stem; put the spring arrangement in place on the stem of the valve on another side. Screw in the valve spring retainer or rotator, squeeze the spring and put the keepers in the grooves, using the grease to maintain position if required. Withdraw the rope, if any used, and turn off the air hose and detach the adapter inserted into the spark plug hole. Last, fit the rocker arm(s) and the push rod(s), the spark plug(s) & wire(s) and the valve cover(s) tighten and start the engine look out for oil leakage and some unusual sound emanating from the valve cover part.

To replace broken valve springs or defective valve stem seals without removing the cylinder heads, specific tools and compressed air are needed. Remove valve cover(s) and spark plug(s) from affected cylinder. Ensure piston is at Top Dead Center on compression stroke. Thread adapter into spark plug hole and connect air hose from compressed air source. If no air pressure, insert nylon rope into combustion chamber to prevent valve drop. Remove rocker arm, fulcrum, and pushrod for affected valve. Apply compressed air to hold valves in place. Alternatively, with rope, stuff rags into cylinder head holes, use valve spring compressor to compress spring, remove keepers, and disassemble valve components. Inspect valve stem for damage, lubricate it, and install new valve guide seal. Reassemble valve components, release air pressure or rotate crankshaft, and reinstall rocker arm(s), pushrod(s), spark plug(s), and valve cover(s). Start and run engine, check for oil leaks and unusual sounds from valve cover area.

Cylinder head removal is not always necessary to replace broken valve springs and or defective valve stem seals as these jobs usually require the use of only two tools and compressed air. In absence of compressed air one can use a length of nylon rope so that the valves do not fall into the cylinder. Start with the elimination of the valve cover of the cylinder head in question and, if all valve stem seals are to be changed, both covers should be removed. Second, take off the spark plug of the cylinder containing the faulty component and if replacing all seals thus take off all spark plugs. Operate the crankshaft in a circular manner until the piston in the damaged cylinder is aligned at the top dead center on the compression stroke; do this cylinder by cylinder starting with cylinder one in the firing order sequence 1-4-2-5-3-6. Insert a spark plug thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose to it from a compressed air. If compressed air is not available, place the piston just prior to top dead center of the compression stroke and insert a long length of nylon string through the spark plug hole and into the combustion chamber until all of but one end of the string is pulled out for removal. Jam the shop rag into the cylinder head holes so that parts do not go into the engine, and using valve spring compressor, compress the spring/damper, then remove the keepers with the tips of a needle-nose plier or magnet. Pull off the spring retainer or rotator, the sleeve, the valve spring and the guide seal. If air pressure is not sufficient to close the valve it will cause valve face or the seat to wear and to address this; you will have to remove the cylinder head. Put a rubber band or tape around the upper part of the valve stem so it does not fall into the combustion chamber and then deflate the tire. Check for such things as on the valve stem that the head should not bind in the guide; if it does, the head will require removal to be fixed. Put the air pressure back on to lock the valve shut, then take out the tape or rubber band. Use a drop of engine oil on the valve stem and fit a new rubber suction cup to the stem; put the spring arrangement in place on the stem of the valve on another side. Screw in the valve spring retainer or rotator, squeeze the spring and put the keepers in the grooves, using the grease to maintain position if required. Withdraw the rope, if any used, and turn off the air hose and detach the adapter inserted into the spark plug hole. Last, fit the rocker arm(s) and the push rod(s), the spark plug(s) & wire(s) and the valve cover(s) tighten and start the engine look out for oil leakage and some unusual sound emanating from the valve cover part.

Install the spring in position over the valve, then install the valve spring retainer.

The valves should be held in place by the air pressure.

Stuff shop rags into the cylinder head holes above and below the valves to prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine, then use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring. Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet.

Use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring/damper assembly. Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet.

Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder head.

The steps involved in the repair process using the air method include valve cover removal, cylinder TDC positioning, applying compressed air or rope to retain valve position, using specialized tools to compress the spring and remove various components, replacing valve stem seals, and reassembling the components in reverse order.

The rocker arm, fulcrum, and pushrod for the affected valve should be removed.

Use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring, then remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet. Remove the spring retainer or rotator, sleeve (if used), and valve spring assembly.