Ford F13Z-6049-A Remanufactured Kit

When removing the heads, the engine must be cold to minimize on warping of the heads. First, unplug the negative cable of the battery and then the drive belt with belt tensioner, and then drain the cooling system. Then to it, take off the valve cover(s), the pushrods and the rocker arms, and at last the intake manifold. For the left cylinder head, remove the bolts of the power steering pump and set it aside but retaining the hoses connected, do the same to the exhaust manifold. On supercharged models, the intercooler and its tubes should be detached, and the wiring of the alternator should be disconnected, as well as the bolts of the alternator and power steering bracket from the engine should be loosened. To get to the proper side of the cylinder head, first, remove the air conditioning compressor, if fitted, by unbolted and set aside, with the AC hoses still connected, then remove the exhaust manifold. Shake the head bolts counterclockwise in incremental turns of about 90 degrees each until they can be turned out by hand; this should be done in reverse of the turning pattern followed during the tightening sequence. Head bolts are not supposed to be used again; they have to be removed and disposed of, and new bolts used on the machine. They must be raised gently if any force is offering resistance a prybar should be placed under the head(s) against a casting protrusion and the head should be placed on blocks made of wood so as to avoid damaging the gasket sealing surfaces of the head(s). In mating the cylinder heads to the block ensure the two mating surfaces are clean as possible, you can use gasket scraper and clean with thinner or acetone. Look out for nicks or damage on any mating surfaces fit and if the require fitting a file or perhaps reconsider machining. Align the new gasket(s) in right way over the dowel pins in the block and gently place the head(s) on the block on top of the gasket(s). Apply more pipe sealant to the threads of the four short bolts and lightly lubricate the rest of the head bolts, the head bolts are not exchangeable between the supercharged and non-supercharged engines. Screw in the bolts and merely turn them clockwise until they are tight, then the use the correct pattern to turn them a further additional three times to the correct torque level. When the required torque value is achieved, turn all the head bolts by two or three turns counter clockwise and then alternately torque to the final torque value again. The following activities are the exact opposite of removal; All the remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. Last, renew the engine oil and filter with the right kind of oil compatible with your vehicle, fill the coolant and step on the accelerator, be keen and ensure that you do not see signs of oil or coolant leakage. Once cylinder head bolts have been lightened using the above procedure, it is not imperative that they should be lightened again after long use of the vehicle though it is advisable to check on their tightness if one so wishes to.

Remove the valve cover(s), pushrods, intake manifold, drive belts, idler pulley bracket, Thermactor valve and pump, and crossover tube first. For the left cylinder head, take out and unbolt the air conditioning compressor and bracket(s). Disconnect the fuel line from the right cylinder head and remove the exhaust manifold(s). Then draw on cardboard around each cylinder and bolt pattern using a new head gasket. Loosen the head bolts in 1/4 turn increments; store them; then lift off the heads. When installing, clean surfaces; check for damage; chase holes for bolts; position new gasket(s). Put heads in place on the block after oiling bolt threads and tighten them according to this sequence. Finally, perform the reverse order of the remaining steps plus change the engine oil & filter before starting the engine.

New and remanufactured cylinder heads can be easily purchased for virtually all kinds of engines at the dealerships and auto part stores. Since specialized tools are required for the disassembly and inspections and since the actual core parts may be difficult to obtain, it may actually be wiser and more cost effective for the home mechani to purchase off new heads than to carry out acquisitions, dismantlings and thorough inspections, and reconditioning. Start it with the withdrawal of the rocker arms. After that, using a scraper and wire brush, remove all carbon from the combustion chamber and the valve heads and while doing so do not damage the gasket surface of the valves. Fit over the valve and use a valve spring compressor to compress the valve springs and thereby remove the keepers and the springs. That, then, would require the removal of the retainer, spring assembly, and the seal from the valve to allow the head and the valve to be removed through the bottom of the head. If the valve binds in the guide, force it back into the head and take off the head of the stem with a file or whetstone. This should be done to the other valves with all the parts kept together likely in small poly bags with the valve location on the bag for ease of reinstallation. After all valves have been removed and are set aside, clean and inspect the head and perform all related disassembly steps to a complete engine if you are doing an engine overhaul before you begin the cylinder head cleaning and inspection.

Dealerships and auto parts shops sell new and rebuilt cylinder heads. One would require some specialized tools for dissembling and inspecting it. Buying replacement heads may be more feasible than trying to find replacement parts. When disassembling the cylinder head, remove valves and rocker arm components then label or store them separately. Use a spring compressor in removing the keepers and other parts.

The cylinder heads together with the related valve train ought to be cleaned to look fordamage and then thoroughly inspected so that you can determine how much of the valve service work is required during the engine overhaul. One should first of all, remove all existing debris of gasket material as well as the sealing compound on the surfaces of the head gasket, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold. Deposit the scale accumulation in the coolant passages and scrub in and out of the oil holes as well by a stiff wire brush. To clean the threaded holes, one may use a tap to remove corrosion and thread sealant followed by a cleaning of debris using compressed air that users eye protection while doing so. Scrub the threads of the rocker arm pivot bolt with a wire brush; clean the cylinder head with solvent and after that dry the head with air assistance for better results. It is therefore clear that decarbonising chemicals may be useful but should be taken with some precautions. Using solvent clean the rocker arms, the fulcrums, bolts and the pushrods and be sure to dry them out. Always service all valve springs, keepers, retainers, rotators, sleeves and shims to one valve at a time so as to avoid confusion between them. Remove thick build-up from valves and then proceed to use a motorized wire brush in the valve head and stem surfaces while keeping the valves in order. Check if the head is cracked and if there is leakage of coolant; if so get a new cylinder head. Run a straightedge and feeler gauge across the head gasket mating surfaces and if the numbers are off in regards to the specification the head can be machined. Check on the face of the valve seats for pitting, cracking signs or just plain burning where professional valve service may be needed. Using a dial indicator check the valve stem-to-valve guide clearance, and if there is any doubt about the condition of guides they should be sent to the machine shop. Make sure all the parts are very cleaned and that all conduits of oil are clear. Feel the top of the rocker arms for grooving and look for wear on the tips of the valves lifter push rods and roll each push rod on a flat surface to feel for bends. See that any worn out part is replaced or any part that has wattles in it due to the stress it pulls. Looking at each of the valves one by one it is recommended to ensure that the valve face is not cracked, pitted, or in the worst-case scenario burned, while ensuring the stem as well as the neck of the valve are not cracked, and more to it, the valve itself should not be bent. Determine the valve margin thickness from the specifications and any valve whose margin is thinner than specified must be resent. Each valve spring should be closely checked for signs of wear and the free length of the valve spring should also be checked, and any which are shorter than that mentioned above should be discarded. 2 Check the thin section springs retainers and keepers for wear, and check for cracks; lubricate rotators. If the inspection reveals that the valve components are worn out, then re fit the valves in the cylinder head and go by the recommendations for valve servicing. If no heavily worn areas are noticeable and the faces and seats of the valve are in fine condition, then the valve train members can be replaced in the cylinder head without much overhauling.

Inspect the cylinder head for cracks, signs of coolant leakage, and other damage.

Compress the spring and install the keepers. Release the compressor, making sure the keepers are seated properly in the valve stem grooves. If necessary, use a small dab of grease to hold the keepers in place until the compressor is released.

The head should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a complete engine overhaul is being done, finish the engine disassembly procedures before beginning the cylinder head cleaning and inspection process.

Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise so the keyway is in the 9 o'clock position to avoid damage to pistons or valve train parts.

Before placing the cylinder heads back on the block, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise to position the keyway at the 9 o'clock position.