Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil holes with a stone, file, or scraper to ensure the oil holes are chamfered, preventing sharp edges from gouging or scratching the new bearings. Clean the crankshaft with solvent and dry it with compressed air if available, ensuring to clean the oil holes with a stiff brush and flush them with solvent, using a wire or stiff plastic bristle brush for the oil passages. Check the main and connecting rod bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pits, and cracks. Rub a penny across each journal several times; if a journal picks up copper, it is too rough and must be reground. Inspect the rest of the crankshaft for cracks and other damage, utilizing magnafluxing to reveal hidden cracks, which an automotive machine shop can perform. Measure the diameter of the main and connecting rod journals with a micrometer, comparing the results to the specifications, and check for taper and out-of-round conditions by measuring at several points around each journal's circumference. Additionally, check the crankshaft runout with large V-blocks and a dial indicator; if lacking the equipment, have a machine shop perform the check. If the crankshaft journals are damaged, tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond the specified limits, have the crankshaft reground by an automotive machine shop, ensuring the correct size bearing inserts are used if reconditioned. Inspect the oil seal journals at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage; if a groove is worn or if the journal is nicked or scratched, the new seal may leak upon reassembly. An automotive machine shop may repair the journal by pressing on a thin sleeve, but if repair isn't feasible, a new or different crankshaft should be installed. Finally, examine the main and rod bearing inserts for any issues.