Question 1

How to remove and install the Clutch Master Cylinder on Ford Bronco II?

Accepted Answer

For the 1983-84 models, the hydraulic clutch system is serviced as a complete unit, which has been bled of air and filled with fluid, with individual components not available separately. Begin by removing the lock pin and disconnecting the master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal. For 2.0L and 2.3L gasoline engines, remove the bolt attaching the dust shield to the clutch housing, then remove the dust shield and push the slave cylinder rearward to disengage it from the housing lugs before sliding it outward. For 2.BL gasoline and 2.2L diesel engines, remove the bolts attaching the slave cylinder to the clutch housing, disengage the push rod from the release lever, and retain the plastic bearing inserts. Next, remove the bolts attaching the master cylinder to the firewall and the fluid reservoir to the cowl access cover, then take the master cylinder out of the firewall and remove the hydraulic system assembly from the engine compartment. To install, position the hydraulic system downward into the engine compartment, ensuring the slave to master cylinder tube routing is above the brake tubes and below the steering column shaft. Insert the master cylinder push rod through the firewall opening, position the master cylinder, and install the bolts, torquing them to 15-20 ft. lbs. Position the fluid reservoir on the cowl opening cover, install the bolts, and torque them to 15-20 ft. lbs. Install the slave cylinder by pushing the push rod into the cylinder, engaging it with the release lever, and attaching the cylinder to the clutch housing. For 4-2.0L and 2.3L engines, snap the dust shield into position and tighten the retaining bolt to 5-10 ft. lbs. For 6-2.BL gasoline and 4-2.2L diesel engines, install the bolts attaching the slave cylinder to the clutch housing and torque them to 15-20 ft. lbs. Clean and apply a light film of oil to the master cylinder push rod bushing, install the bushing and push rod to the clutch pedal, and retain with the lock pin. Finally, depress the clutch pedal at least 10 times to verify smooth operation and proper clutch release. For the 1985-90 models, disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal and remove the switch from the master cylinder assembly if equipped. Remove the screw retaining the fluid reservoir to the cowl access cover, disconnect the tube from the slave cylinder, and plug both openings. Remove the bolts retaining the clutch master cylinder to the dash panel and take out the assembly. To install, place the pushrod through the hole in the engine compartment, ensuring it is on the correct side of the clutch pedal, then position the master cylinder assembly and install the retaining bolts, tightening them to 8-12 ft. lbs. Insert the coupling end into the slave cylinder and install the tube into the clips. Fit the reservoir on the cowl access cover and install the retaining screws. Replace the retainer bushing in the clutch master cylinder pushrod if worn or damaged, then install the retainer and pushrod on the clutch pedal pin, ensuring the bushing is fitted correctly. Install the switch, bleed the system, and reconnect the negative battery cable.

Question 2

How to remove and install the clutch master cylinder on Ford Ranger?

Accepted Answer

To remove the clutch master cylinder, first disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Next, disconnect the hydraulic line from the clutch release cylinder. Inside the vehicle, remove the spring clip or retainer bushing and disconnect the pushrod from the top of the clutch pedal, noting that on later models, the driver's side lower kick panel may need to be removed for access. Remove the clutch/starter interlock switch or Clutch Pedal Position sensor from the pushrod, depending on the model. In the engine compartment, remove the bolts securing the master cylinder reservoir to the firewall, taking care not to spill any fluid; for 2000 and later models, the master cylinder is retained without mounting bolts. For 2011 models, remove the inner fender splash shield and disconnect the hydraulic line-to-frame bracket. From the engine side of the firewall, twist the clutch master cylinder about 45 degrees counterclockwise to remove it, then remove the master cylinder mounting bolts, again being cautious about fluid spillage. Take out the master cylinder and reservoir from the engine compartment, ensuring that on 2011 models, they are removed as a unit. For installation, position the master cylinder through the firewall, ensuring the pushrod is correctly aligned with the clutch pedal's pivot pin, then attach the master cylinder to the firewall and install the mounting bolts, tightening them to specifications. Attach the master cylinder reservoir to the firewall and secure it with bolts. Connect the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder, then inside the vehicle, connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the clip or retainer bushing, using a new clip for 2011 models. Reinstall the clutch/starter interlock switch, reconnect the negative cable to the battery, fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications, and bleed the clutch system.

Genuine Ford Clutch Master Cylinder

59 Clutch Master Cylinders found

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Master Cylinder Assembly

Ford Clutch Master Cylinder Parts Questions & Experts Answers

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