To remove the clutch master cylinder, first disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Then, disconnect the hydraulic line from the clutch release cylinder. Inside the vehicle, remove the spring clip or retainer bushing and disconnect the pushrod from the top of the clutch pedal, noting that on later models, the driver's side lower kick panel may need to be removed for access. Next, remove the clutch/starter interlock switch or Clutch Pedal Position sensor from the pushrod. The clutch master cylinder is secured in an opening in the firewall; twist it about 45 degrees counterclockwise from the engine side to remove it. For 2011 models, take off the inner fender splash shield and disconnect the hydraulic line-to-frame bracket. Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts from the engine side of the firewall, being careful not to spill any fluid, and then take out the master cylinder and reservoir. For installation, insert the master cylinder through the firewall, ensuring the pushrod is correctly positioned on the clutch pedal's pivot pin, then attach it to the firewall and secure it with mounting bolts. Next, attach the master cylinder reservoir and tighten the mounting bolts. Connect the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder, then inside the vehicle, connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the clip or retainer bushing, using a new clip for 2011 models. Reinstall the clutch/starter interlock switch, reconnect the negative cable to the battery, fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid that meets DOT 3 specifications, and bleed the clutch system.