Mercury F1SZ-6701-A Crankshaft Oil Seal Assembly

Before removing the crankshaft front oil seal, the coolant should be drained, the fan shroud and radiator should be removed with the fan and pulley. Next, remove the large bolt and washer on the crankshaft nose, but for precaution keep the crankshaft from turning using the transmission in gear or the flywheel. Take out the vibration damper and, with the help of a seal remover tool, take out the old seal out of the timing cover, and wash the depression. Apply engine oil at the outer edge of the new seal and place it properly with the help of seal driver or a large socket in which place of the spring respectively. Oil crankshaft nose, inner periphery of the vibration damper, and seal contact surface, apply RTV sealant to inner keyway of damper hub. Position the damper keyway of the crankshaft so that it fits into the damper groove and tighten the supplied bolt to hold the key securely in place, using the supplied washer. The next process as that of removal, if oil was drained, replace the engine and start the vehicle and check if there is leakage. In the case of the rear main oil seal, switch off the negative battery terminal, then take out the starter and thereafter, the transmission. It seems to apply to manual transmissions: remove the clutch assembly; to automatics: remove the driveplate. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and the flywheel and the engine rear cover plate. Drilling two hold at the oil seal, the screws are screwed to the holes, seal is than removed gently using the screw drivers so that do not cause any harm to the crankshaft surface. Scrub the oil recess area and check the contact surfaces of the crankshaft, and smooth, them if required. Apply a coat of engine oil on the new seal and the crankshaft surface, starting the seal into the cavity in the correct way, the lip facing toward the engine, and then put it with the aid of a special driver for this sort of seal in the right position correctly. After confirming correct installation, reverse all the steps of removal if so required, fill up the crankcase if oil was drained, cranking of the engine to identify leaks.

Before replacing the front seal, it is mandatory that the timing chain cover be installed and the vehicle should be elevated on wooden cradles to turn out the aged seal utilizing a punch and hammer. Check for the presence of any sharp edges, on the seal bore should not have any nicks or burrs at the perimeter; apply engine oil on the seal lip and on the outer periphery. Align the new seal such that its lip is located on the inside and with much force strike it in the center and perpendicularly with the help of a seal driver, or a large socket or pipe if a seal driver is not available. The rear seal process begins by having to eliminate the transmission and clutch if it has, the flywheel or the drive plate and the engine rear plate. With an awl, create two punctures in diametrically opposed positions on the seam and drill them to accommodate a sheetmetal screw in each of the holes, which with large screwdrivers or small levers prise against to remove the seal-be careful not to harm the crankshaft sealing surface. Scrape the oil seal bore and inspect for nicks or burrs, if the seal is to be new then just wet its outer diameter with clean engine oil and the contact surface with grease or oil. Align the new seal against the bore with an open end inside, and tap it into place so that it is firmly lodged; check that the relation of the squareness of rear seal to crankshaft center line and also distance from seal toward the rear face of the block are within prescribed limits.

Before replacement of the front oil seal, you should drain the cooling system and then also remove the fan shroud, the radiator, the fan as well as the pulley. On 7.5L engines, remove the final drive belt. Next, unscrew the big nut and washer from the crankshaft nose but make sure that the crankshaft will not turns. Using a good puller, remove the vibration damper, then by the use of chisel and hammer, remove the old seal from the timing cover and from the crank shaft as well. Sweep the groove in the cover, apply motor oil in the circumference of the new sealing ring, and then insert it in place together with a seal driver or a large socket, making sure the spring is rightly placed. Engine oil should be applied on the crankshaft nose, the inner part of the vibration damper, including the seal seat, and keyway of the damper hub should be coated with RTV sealant. Position the damper keyway in line with the crankshaft key; engage the damper and bolt and washer and tighten to the specified torque rating. After removal, the operations are in the opposite sequence of installation; the next steps for the engine are refilling with oil and coolant and running through of the leak test whereby the engine is started immediately after installation. Regarding the rear main oil seal, all the VB engines up to 1983 used a two part seal while starting from 1984 the engines used a one part seal, apart from the 7.5L engine which remained using the two part seal. To change the two-piece seal, one will have to drop the oil pan to have access, loosen the main bearing cap screws by about ¼ turn, and then pull the rear main bearing cap to pull out the oil seal. To remove the part of the seal in the block, one will require a small sheet metal screw and it should not be used with force considering the delicate crank shaft surfaces. Remove carbon deposits and dirt from the grooves in the cap and block, coat the new seal halves with clean engine oil and fit the upper seal with the lip at the front of the engine and it should project as per the standard. Torque the main bearing cap bolts, fit the lower seal in the cap, use some RTV sealant on the surfaces that touch each other and put back the rear main bearing cap in such a way that the seals will align well. Closely torque the cap bolts, fit the oil pan and the oil pump and then carry on with the reverse procedure. Last but not the least, add the oil and coolant in the engine and look for any sign of leakage once the engine has been started.

Make sure that the engine block is clean so that it will fit properly the Crankshaft Seal then put a drop or two of oil on the lip of the seal. Before installing the seal in the recess, apply engine oil to the seal lip and the crankshaft surface and use tool T82L-6701-A to install the seal. Otherwise, a hammer and socket of the same size of the seal can also be used in order to hammer the seal in the bore. Last of all, insert the seal firmly unto the area where it can be properly fixed.

To change the front seal, you'll have to take out the fan/clutch assembly; the fan shroud and drivebelt; the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper, and finally remove the old front Crankshaft Seal with care. Inspect for damage. It comes in with the open side facing in, lubricate it with engine oil, and drive it into the bore. Lubricate the lip of the seal, and install the damper onto the crankshaft paying attention to its alignment with the Woodruff key. Tighten up this bolt on a damper, put back the fan/clutch assembly and shroud, and restore a drive belt. To replace the rear seal, disconnect the battery cable, remove the drain plate then the back cover plate or backup housing. Remove the retaining ring or snap ring and discard the gasket material or old sealer.

To replace the front seal, there is need to first remove the negative terminal of the battery, then follow the removal of the; fan assembly and shroud, the drivebelt and if equipped upper and lower shields. Place a mark on the crankshaft pulley and on the vibration damper so as to guide it when it will be reassembled, unscrew and take out the pulley and remove the vibration with a puller in order not to damage it. Scrub the crankshaft nose and the seal contact face and slightly pry out the worn out seal with the bore and crankshaft being checked for any signs of damage. If necessary, fit or rivet a special sleeve over any grooves in the balancer to obviate leakage. Smooth some oil to the lip of new seal and push it in to the bore until it fits tightly and you may use a socket or pipe of equal diameter. This is where balance pins are normally situated and if placing a new vibration damper, then balance pins should be well placed and the contact surface greased or oiled. Calling face the damper with the Woodruff key and set it with a soft-face hammer; then replace all other parts + and start the motor and check for leaks. For the rear seal, just drop the transmission and the flywheel/Drive plate, then just gently pry out the old seal without having to scratch the Crank shaft. Scrub the internal cylinder and the crankshaft and look for more damage, lubricate the edge of the new seal and than put it in the cylinder nicely and if possible use the tool. Last and before anything else, replace the rear cover plate, the flywheel or drive plate, as well as the transmission.

First of all, to replace the front Crankshaft Seal with the timing chain cover in place, remove the fan shroud, fan/clutch assembly, and drive belts. Extract the crankshaft bolt, and use a puller to detach the vibration damper. Care should be taken not to damage the cover or seal bore as you remove it using a special tool or a chisel and hammer. Inspect for any damage. Use a special tool or a socket and hammer to install the new seal. For engines with the timing chain cover removed, drive out the seal, clean the bore, and install the new seal with a socket and hammer. The procedure for rear main oil seals differs depending on whether one-piece or two-piece seals are used. To replace a one-piece seal, you need to take out the transmission, drive plate, and rear cover plate first. Remove this old one by prying off carefully then clean up back in there before applying both oil and grease on a new one that is pressed in place.

To change the front seal, you'll have to take out the fan/clutch assembly; the fan shroud and drivebelt; the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper, and finally remove the old front Crankshaft Seal with care. Inspect for damage. It comes in with the open side facing in, lubricate it with engine oil, and drive it into the bore. Lubricate the lip of the seal, and install the damper onto the crankshaft paying attention to its alignment with the Woodruff key. Tighten up this bolt on a damper, put back the fan/clutch assembly and shroud, and restore a drive belt. To replace the rear seal, disconnect the battery cable, remove the drain plate then the back cover plate or backup housing. Remove the retaining ring or snap ring and discard the gasket material or old sealer.

First of all, to replace the front Crankshaft Seal with the timing chain cover in place, remove the fan shroud, fan/clutch assembly, and drive belts. Extract the crankshaft bolt, and use a puller to detach the vibration damper. Care should be taken not to damage the cover or seal bore as you remove it using a special tool or a chisel and hammer. Inspect for any damage. Use a special tool or a socket and hammer to install the new seal. For engines with the timing chain cover removed, drive out the seal, clean the bore, and install the new seal with a socket and hammer. The procedure for rear main oil seals differs depending on whether one-piece or two-piece seals are used. To replace a one-piece seal, you need to take out the transmission, drive plate, and rear cover plate first. Remove this old one by prying off carefully then clean up back in there before applying both oil and grease on a new one that is pressed in place.

Clean the crankshaft nose and the seal contact surface on the pulley with lacquer thinner or acetone, and leave the Woodruff key in place in the crankshaft keyway.

The rear main oil seal replacement is a time-consuming job that requires several special tools. It is advised to read through the procedure and obtain the necessary tools before beginning.

Reinstall the driveplate, ensuring that the crankshaft sensor ring is positioned between the crankshaft and the driveplate.

If a new vibration damper is being installed, balance pins must be located in the new damper in the same relative positions as the original. Also, the pulley must be attached to the damper with the same orientation to the pins as on the original. Apply clean engine oil to the seal contact surface of the vibration damper and coat the keyway (groove) with a thin layer of RTV sealant.