Ford F5UZ-3V049-A Ball Joint Assembly

To inspect the front wheel bearings, raise the vehicle and position a jack stand under the I-beam axle beneath the coil spring. Have a helper grasp the upper edge of the tire and move the wheel assembly in and out while observing the lower spindle arm and the lower part of the axle jaw. A movement of ¼2 In. (0.8mm) or greater between the lower part of the axle jaw and the lower spindle arm indicates that the lower ball joint must be replaced. For removal and installation, safely raise and support the vehicle with jack stands, then remove the spindle and ball joint assembly. Take off the snap ring from the ball joint and use a ball joint removal tool to detach the ball joint from the spindle without heating the ball joint or axle. Installation follows the reverse of the removal procedure, with the ball joint stud nut torqued to 104-146 ft. lbs. for 1983-88 Ranger and Bronco II models, and to 95-110 ft. lbs. for 1989-90 Ranger and Bronco II models.

Start with the front wheel bearings check and rectification, lift the vehicle and placed the jack stand at the I-beam axle below the coil spring. There should be a helper to hold the lower edge of the tire and rotate the wheel assembly to and fro as you study the lower spindle arm and the lower part of the axle jaw; the movement should be about 1/32 in. Any wear of .080 or more is to be supplemented with a lower ball joint replacement. For upper ball joints use the following techniques on the upper spindle arm and the upper part of the axle jaw. For 1983-89 models, to make this operation the vehicle is raised on jack stands; the wheel and tire assembly; caliper; hub locks; wheel bearings; lock nuts are removed. Go on and take out hub and rotor, outer wheel bearing cone, and grease seal, the seal must be dumped out and placed back in after the assembling. After that, it is necessary to demount the inner wheel bearing and the bearing cups, and also to separate the spindle from the steering knuckle gently tapping it with a plastic or rawhide hammer. To the left, stripping required the removal of the shaft and joint assembly, while on the right, the keystone clamp was thrown away and the assembly was slid off from the stub shaft. The spindle should be clamped in a vise; the oil seal and the needle bearing should be removed, and, if needed, to remove the seal, it should be driven off the shaft. Remove the tie rod and ball joints and swing on the spindle hitting the studs to release the same. Pull out the camber adjuster sleeve followed by the lower ball joint nut, then use the C-frame and forcing screw to take out the lower ball joint, do the same to the upper ball joint. For installation, the lower ball joint needs to be inserted into the knuckle directly in which the use of C-frame and forcing screw will snug fit the ball joint followed by installation of snap ring. Fit in the upper ball joint in the same manner Afterwards fit in the knuckle to the axle arm making sure that the camber adjuster is in the proper place. Thread the specified torque sequence for securing the spindle, it is very important to align the bearing bores while making sure that it is clean. Insert the bearing into the bore and then fit the grease seal and if used replace the shaft seal with a new one. On the right side the rubber boot and keystone clamps to be fixed and the correct alignment of these parts has to be ensured at the time of fixing. Last but not the least, slide the shaft and joint assembly through the knuckle and then fit the splash shield and the spindle and then only tight the spindle nuts are to be tightened. Insert the bearing cups into the rotor, fill the spaces in the bearings with lubricant and the last step would be to fit the rotor onto its outer wheel bearing and the locking pieces.

For 1991 through 1993 2WD models, removal starts with the spindle followed by the elimination of the snap-ring from the lower ball joint with the lower ball joint being first. By using a special ball joint assembly tool with the appropriate receiving cup one can force the lower ball joint out of the spindle; if this is not possible, one should consult a dealer or a machine shop. Do the same for the upper ball joint and secure it with the same tools used putting it into the axle without heating of the components. This is done as follows: Mount the lower balljoint as described above and tighten it with the snap-ring; later carry out a front-end alignment test. For four-wheel models, the spindle and shaft assembly needs to be removed of which the tie-rod and upper ball joint need to be detached. After the camber adjuster sleeve is out, one has to take out the lower balljoint using a vise and a tool to press it out. Very carefully scrape the channel in the steering knuckle bores before fitting the new lower balljoint which has to be straight and seating it into properly. Proceed with the upper balljoint with due regard for the camber adjuster and tighten the steering knuckle with a new nut and a cotter pin. Last of all, install the tie-rod end and examine the front-end geometry. As for the models manufactured after 1995, the balljoints both on the upper and lower control arms are non- serviceable; replace the control arm if it is damaged. The lower ball joint is interference fit in the 2005 model, meaning that it has to be pressed out using a removal tool after removing the spindle /knuckle and snapping off the snap-ring, and then it has to be pressed in the same manner.

Use the balljoint removal/installation tool to remove the upper balljoint first, then the lower one. Do not heat the axle. To install, use the tool to seat the lower balljoint first, then the upper one. Install the snap-rings and reinstall the spindle. Remove the spindle/knuckle and lower balljoint snap ring. Use the tool to press out the lower balljoint first, then the upper one, and then install the new upper balljoint, then the lower one along with the lower balljoint snap-ring, and reinstall the spindle/knuckle.

For the 2WD sub-models, the removal is done by first removing the spindle after which unscrewing of the snap ring from the lower ball joint which practically means that the lower ball joint is removed from the spindle first. Use a special C-frame assembly tool in combination with the correct receiving cup to press the lower ball joint out of the spindle; if you do not have a suitable cup, contact a dealership or machine shop. Like the lower ball joint, the tool setup is repeated on the upper balljoint and pressed out too. When fitting the upper balljoint, use the C-frame assembly and the receiver cup to tighten the screw until fully seated, to avoid the heating of the parts. Further ontinine with the same tolls as above, press the lower balljoint into the axle until it is flush then fit the lower balljoint snap ring. For 4WD models, the tasks include the elimination of the spindle, axleshaft, and its joint, further, they need to dismantle the cotter pin and nut of the tie-rod. Shunt the snap ring from the above ball joint and the screw of pinch bolt also the cotter pin was removed and the nut was loosened of the lower ball joint. Tap on the inside of the steering knuckle close to each balljoint to release the axle arm fro mthe car and unbolt the camber adjuster sleeve, put a mark on it so that it can easily be realigned. Lose the nut on the lower ball joint and mount the steering knuckle in a vise to extract the snap ring from the lower ball joint socket. Utilize the C-frame assembly tool for pressing out the lower balljoint; do the same for the upper one. All the dust and debris around and inside the steering knuckle balljoint bores must then be removed, then the lower balljoint slot must then be aligned with the knuckle and the C-frame assembly that is to be placed in is then inserted and set in its position with a slight press. Insert lower balljoint snap ring and again perform the procedure for upper balljoint. Replace the camber adjuster on its right place so that the arrow provides correct indications for camber correction. Position the steering knuckle as the camber adjuster was set without moving it; torque the lower ball joint with a new nut; add a cotter pin. Fit the tie-rod end to the knuckle, then nut the tie-rod and put a new cotter pin to keep the nut tight. Reverse the above removal process to complete the installation and take the front end alignment.

2U2Z-3V049-A is the lower ball joint and XC2Z-3V050-AA is the upper.