Ford DG1Z-6049-C Cylinder Head Assembly

To remove the components, first relieve the fuel pressure, then disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Next, remove the air filter housing along with the charger air cooler inlet and outlet pipes, followed by the power steering pump and bracket if equipped, and the alternator. Drain the cooling system and remove the turbocharger, coolant expansion tank, and timing chain, ensuring to check valve clearances before disassembly if camshafts are removed. Disconnect the Camshaft Position sensor electrical connector, unbolt and remove the VCT solenoid valves from the front camshaft bearing cap, and take out the camshafts and lifters while keeping the lifters in order. Remove the fuel rail and injectors, disconnect hoses from the coolant outlet housing, and take off the intake manifold. For 2019 models, disconnect electrical connectors from the EGR valve and remove the EGR valve, transducer, bracket, and tube. If an engine support fixture interferes with the cylinder head removal, use a floor jack for support. Loosen the cylinder head bolts progressively, then lift the cylinder head from the engine compartment, taking care not to damage it. Once removed, discard the gasket and check for locating dowels. Clean the mating faces of the cylinder head and block thoroughly, ensuring no carbon enters oil and water passages, and check for damage on the surfaces. Wipe clean the mating surfaces and install alignment dowels if equipped. Position a new gasket on the cylinder block surface with the "TOP" mark facing up, and use guide studs to assist in installing the heavy cylinder head. Coat the threads of the new cylinder head bolts with engine oil, install them until finger-tight, and then tighten them progressively in the specified sequence. Finally, reverse the removal process for other components, change the engine oil and filter, and refill the cooling system.

Release the pressure of the fuel system, then, remove the connection of the negative terminal of the battery. Drain the cooling system. Depower the upper and lower intake manifold. Having selected the car, lift it on a rise and put it on the jackstands, then, turn off the frontal oxygen sensors and the catalytic converters. Disconnect the two Camshaft Position (CMP) sensors mounted at the rear of each cylinder head, and the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor, the sensor for the catalytic converter monitor and the other two Camshaft Position (CMP) sensors. To enhance the removal process, it is also necessary to unscrew the camshafts from the cylinder head you want to remove. If necessary, remove bolts or clips used to attach wiring harnesses or ground straps to heads of cylinders. Remove the exhaust manifold(s). Any further fixture that could hinder the process of the removal of the cylinder head must also be undone. Take off all the hoses and electrical connectors from the coolant bypass tube, unscrew two bolts which hold this metal tubule. Either apply the above heating to each bolt for about half an hour then slacken each bolt in turn, or heat the cylinder head until it is at the correct temperature then slacken all the bolts a quarter turn at a time as follows: Take out the bolts and dispose them as a new bolt must be used when replacing cylinder head (s). Remove the cylinder head(s) from the engine, being very careful when doing so not to prise between the cylinder head and the engine block. To remove cylinder head knock off the wood block against a touching end of the head or apply a pry against a casting projection using hammer. To remove cylinder heads one need to store it on the blocks of wood so that gasket sealing surfaces would not be damaged. Cylinder head disassembly and inspection procedures must be done professionally and this should be done by an automotive machine shop. The surfaces where the cylinder heads are to be placed should be very clean when placing the cylinder heads and all other openings should be covered with several layers of shop rags to avoid accidental introduction of debris in the engine. Sweep the floor and clear the valley or intake ports if the centres will require a vacuum cleaner. Broken gasket surfaces must NOT be scraped or machined with a scraper or abrasives discs, as the block, heads, and intake manifold are made of aluminum. It is necessary to carefully inspect engine block and the surface of the cylinder head: shaving, deep scratches or other damages are often possible to remove with a file, but serious damage will require and additional engine block machining. Check the block for warpage, by placing a straightedge on the block and using a feeler gauge, if the block is warped, it is recommended that the head should be taken for machining. To chase the threads in the block head bolt holes use a tap of the right size because the bolt holes are often full of dirt, corrosion, sealant and even damaged threads. Place the new gasket(s) in the over the dowel pins located in the engine block with the correct orientation. If the cylinder head is to be replaced then a new secondary timing chain tensioner will be needed. Gently place the cylinder head(s) on the engine block putting the gasket in its right position without being disturbed. New cylinder head bolts should be lightly oiled and then run down until only slightly tight. Cylinder head bolts are of torque-to-yield type and must be thrown away and new ones installed at the time of assembling. Are: Turn the bolts in the sequence with a torque wrench and a breaker bar having your torque angle adapter to get to the correct angle of rotation tighten the bolts as follows to the required torque and angle of rotation. The rest part of the installation process is the process of dismantling with an addition of tightening of fasteners to the corresponding torque value. Replace the engine oil and the filter, then refuel and purge the cooling system. Switch on the engine to be used and look out for any signs of leakage.

Take off fuel pressure from the system, unplug the battery's negative cable, disconnect and remove the airflow filters, then remove the parts connected to inlet and outlet air pipes for the charger cooler. Take the power steering pump and bracket out if it exists, and the alternator. Pull the coolant out of the system first, then take off the turbocharger and expansion tank for more coolant. Take out the timing chain, but first check valve adjustments before starting to take apart the camshafts. Disconnect the power wire from the Camshaft Position sensor, pull out and take off the VCT solenoid valves bolted to the front camshaft bearing cap, then use care to remove both camshafts and lifters while keeping track of their positions. Take out the fuel rail, injectors, and remove all hoses from the coolant outlets. Then disconnect and remove the intake manifold. When an engine support tool or lift prevents us from taking out the cylinder head, we can use a floor jack with a block of wood to hold up the engine from beneath. Carefully cut down the bolt tension on each cylinder head by taking small turning steps back, from newest bolts to oldest, and lift the head out of its place under the hood. When removing the head, protect the aluminum alloy against damage since it is easy to dent. After separating the cylinder head, isolate and throw away the gasket. While cleaning, ensure any locating pins in both the block and head get put back exactly where they belonged. You must wash off all residue on both the cylinder head and block with gasket removal spray, then scrape it clean with rubber or wood tools. Be cautious when cleaning to keep the aluminum alloy intact and stop carbon from getting into oil and water lines. Before putting the pistons in, spread a thin layer of lubricant between the bores and pistons to stop carbon from entering. Check the mating surface for cuts, deep scrapes, and any other damage, and get help from an auto shop if needed. Make sure the mating areas are clean, and place alignment dowels if your vehicle comes with them. Before setting head bolts, make sure the holes are dry to stop water or oil from forcing the pushing rods to lock up. Set the gasket on the cylinder block face with markings upwards, and use guide studs to help you lift the heavy cylinder head into place. Cover the threaded part of each cylinder head bolt with engine oil, put them in place loosely, and work through all bolts in a specific order until they reach their specified torque strength. Along with the other steps, change both your engine oil and filter, and top off the system with fresh fluid.

This procedure must be only performed with the engine out of the car or with the hood open. First, reduce fuel system pressure, then separate the cable from the car's negative terminal. Discharge the cooling system and take out the engine. They continue to remove the intake manifold(s) and exhaust manifolds or even the turbochargers and then the valve covers. Camshafts and lifters should be taken off, then the drivebelt, and the drivebelt tensioner. Remove both Camshaft Position (CMP) sensors by loosening the correct bolts located at the rear of each cylinder head; also remove other electrical connectors from the heads and take time to use a marker to identify them so as to properly reinstall them. Technicians must sequentially and slowly unscrew the cylinder head bolts via a quarter-turn at a time and this must be done round the bolts in a manner that is opposite to the tightening pattern. Take off all bolts so that they are disposed because installation requires new bolts. Gently remove the cylinder head(s) from the engine utilizing a wood block and a hammer or other tools and place it/them on wooden blocks so that it would not be scratched. Cylinder head disassembly and inspection must only be done by a qualified automotive machine shop. For installation, the mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and the engine block must be free from any contamination; cover all holes to avoid contamination. If there is less than .005 inch of high or low, the heck of the engine block and the cylinder head will require filing if the alignment is less than .010 inch off, but if it is greater than .010, machining is necessary. Thread the remnant of the block head bolt holes with the help of a tap of the required size. Place the new gasket(s) squarely over the dowel pins on the engine block with the grain laid correctly. Using a great deal of care, place the cylinder head(s) on the engine bloc without shifting the position of the gasket(s) and coat the new cylinder bolts lightly with oil and screw them down until they are hand tight. What is important to bear in mind is that the cylinder head bolts are torque-to-yield type and should therefore be removed for re-use. Use a torque wrench, and breaker bar with torque angle adaptor, and tighten the bolts in the sequence, to the correct torque, as well as the recommended angle of rotation. The rest of the process is the reverse of dismantling in order. Last yet not least, replace the engine oil and filter and filled the cooling system reservoir then start the engine with an inspection of the oil and coolants leakage.

Coat the threads with engine oil, apply a light coat of oil to the cylinder head bolt threads, and install the new cylinder head bolts. Screw them in by hand only until finger-tight.