Release the pressure of the fuel system, then, remove the connection of the negative terminal of the battery. Drain the cooling system. Depower the upper and lower intake manifold. Having selected the car, lift it on a rise and put it on the jackstands, then, turn off the frontal Oxygen Sensor and the catalytic converters. Disconnect the two Camshaft Position (CMP) sensors mounted at the rear of each cylinder head, and the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor, the sensor for the catalytic converter monitor and the other two Camshaft Position (CMP) sensors. To enhance the removal process, it is also necessary to unscrew the camshafts from the cylinder head you want to remove. If necessary, remove bolts or clips used to attach wiring harnesses or ground straps to heads of cylinders. Remove the exhaust manifold(s). Any further fixture that could hinder the process of the removal of the cylinder head must also be undone. Take off all the hoses and electrical connectors from the coolant bypass tube, unscrew two bolts which hold this metal tubule. Either apply the above heating to each bolt for about half an hour then slacken each bolt in turn, or heat the cylinder head until it is at the correct temperature then slacken all the bolts a quarter turn at a time as follows: Take out the bolts and dispose them as a new bolt must be used when replacing cylinder head (s). Remove the cylinder head(s) from the engine, being very careful when doing so not to prise between the cylinder head and the engine block. To remove cylinder head knock off the wood block against a touching end of the head or apply a pry against a casting projection using hammer. To remove cylinder heads one need to store it on the blocks of wood so that gasket sealing surfaces would not be damaged. Cylinder head disassembly and inspection procedures must be done professionally and this should be done by an automotive machine shop. The surfaces where the cylinder heads are to be placed should be very clean when placing the cylinder heads and all other openings should be covered with several layers of shop rags to avoid accidental introduction of debris in the engine. Sweep the floor and clear the valley or intake ports if the centres will require a vacuum cleaner. Broken gasket surfaces must NOT be scraped or machined with a scraper or abrasives discs, as the block, heads, and intake manifold are made of aluminum. It is necessary to carefully inspect engine block and the surface of the cylinder head: shaving, deep scratches or other damages are often possible to remove with a file, but serious damage will require and additional engine block machining. Check the block for warpage, by placing a straightedge on the block and using a feeler gauge, if the block is warped, it is recommended that the head should be taken for machining. To chase the threads in the block head bolt holes use a tap of the right size because the bolt holes are often full of dirt, corrosion, sealant and even damaged threads. Place the new gasket(s) in the over the dowel pins located in the engine block with the correct orientation. If the cylinder head is to be replaced then a new secondary timing chain tensioner will be needed. Gently place the cylinder head(s) on the engine block putting the gasket in its right position without being disturbed. New cylinder head bolts should be lightly oiled and then run down until only slightly tight. Cylinder head bolts are of torque-to-yield type and must be thrown away and new ones installed at the time of assembling. Are: Turn the bolts in the sequence with a torque wrench and a breaker bar having your torque angle adapter to get to the correct angle of rotation tighten the bolts as follows to the required torque and angle of rotation. The rest part of the installation process is the process of dismantling with an addition of tightening of fasteners to the corresponding torque value. Replace the engine oil and the filter, then refuel and purge the cooling system. Switch on the engine to be used and look out for any signs of leakage.
