Ford 4R3Z-19703-A Compressor Assembly

When replacing the compressor on all 2001 and newer vehicles, you must also install a new accumulator/drier and orifice tube. Get started by emptying and refilling the air conditioner system. You should let a pro clean out the system when you need to replace the compressor. Unplug the black cable from your car battery and take off the air filter tube. First, pull off the electrical connector from the compressor, then loosen the part holding the wires behind it. First take off the drivebelt. Then disconnect the power steering reservoir from its mount and completely remove the reservoir holder. Block up the refrigerant pipes where they meet the compressor's back end, then cover the empty fitting openings to keep dirt and water from entering. On some cars, you need to take off the power steering lines that fasten to a bracket by the side of the compressor. Lift the compressor out by removing the mounting bolts from their brackets, and take note that the easiest way to access these bolts is by taking out the fenderwell access panel. Read and follow what the compressor maker tells you about removing oil from the old compressor before installing the new one. Take the dirty compressor oil out of the old compressor into a measuring container. Put the same amount of fresh oil, measured from the drained amount, into the new compressor. The clutch should be moved from the removed compressor and put onto the new one. When putting back an air cooling system, make sure to add fresh O-rings, and apply suitable oil designed for the system to all rings after reversing the uninstallation steps. The shop needs to both empty and refresh the system, then check for leaks.

The accumulator should be replaced whenever the compressor is replaced. On 2011 models, the drive belt does not need to be completely removed; it can be removed from the air conditioning compressor pulley only. Have the air conditioning system discharged. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. On 4.0L engines, unbolt and set aside the power steering reservoir, then remove the four bolts and the power steering bracket. Disconnect the electrical connector from the compressor. Remove the drive belt. Remove the bolt that secures the refrigerant lines to the rear of the compressor. Plug the open fittings to prevent entry of dirt and moisture. On 2011 models, remove the compressor manifold bolts and remove the manifold and tube from the compressor. On 2011 4.0L V6 models, remove the inner fender well liner. Unbolt the compressor from the mounting brackets and lift it out of the vehicle. If a new compressor is being installed, follow the directions with the compressor regarding the draining of excess oil prior to installation. The clutch may have to be transferred from the original to the new compressor. Installation is the reverse of removal with the following additions: Replace all O-rings with new ones specifically made for air conditioning system use. Lubricate them with special PAG refrigerant oil designed for use in R-134a systems. Use mineral oil on R-12 systems. Do not use the wrong lubricant or you may contaminate the system! Have the system evacuated, recharged, and leak tested by the shop that discharged it.

Remove the drivebelt.

If a new compressor is being installed, follow the directions with the compressor regarding the draining of excess oil prior to installation. The clutch may have to be transferred from the original compressor to the replacement.

Remove the drive belt and the bolt securing the refrigerant lines to the rear of the compressor. Plug the open fittings to prevent dirt and moisture entry. On 2011 models, remove the compressor manifold bolts and the manifold and tube from the compressor. On 2011 4.0L V6 models, removing the inner fenderwell liner may be necessary.

YES THE COMPRESSOR IS COMPLETE THE MANIFOLD LINE IS F81Z19D850CB HOSE FROM CONDENSER IS 6C3Z19835BA DRYER IS 6C3Z19C836B.

YES