Ford 5S4Z-6038-BB Engine Mount Bushing-Right

The engine/transaxle mounts are usually very robust, but any of the mounts that are found to be broken or deteriorated should be replaced without any delay so that they do not cause any wear or damage to the driveline. The mounts can be checked only if the engine/transaxle is lifted slightly to off-load their weight. To start with, apply a parking brake, lift the front part of the car and place it on two stands. If fitted, pull the engine under-shield, then secure a jack on the oil pan with a piece of lumber to spread the load, and then raise the engine/transaxle slightly off its mounts. Visually check that the mounts are not cracked or have formed hard rubber regions or that they are no longer bonded with metal parts, and also use a large screwdriver or lever to try and induce relative movement between the mount brackets and the engine/transaxle or body. If there is any movement felt feel free to lower your engine then check the mount nuts and bolts for loose. To remove the engine mounts you should use a jack and wood under the assembly or a hoist above for support or an engine support fixture. After supported, to release and take off any of the mounts. For the right-hand mount you should specify the three bolts' locations, remove them and pull the mount out. For the left hand mount first, you got to take out the battery with tray, the air intake duct, then you need to unscrew the five mount nuts, you raise the upper bracket and then you pull of the lower half and remove the transaxle. The rear mount/link can be taken off thus: parking brake on; front of the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands; through-bolts removed while the engine is restrained. The replacement of all mounts follows a procedure that is reverse of the removal process in that the mount nuts/bolts are only partially tightened until all the mounts are correctly positioned and further tightening must assure that the mount rubbers are not twisted or distorted by the tightening process and finally the final tightening is done where the full weight of the engine/transaxle is supported on the mounts.

The engine/transmission mounts should not commonly need inspection or replacement until they are broken or worn but in the event of a broken mount or mount that is worn significantly the mount must be replaced at once with a view of preventing a damage or wear out of the drive line assembly. It is often possible to lift an individual mount and replace it repeatedly and independently Even if several of the mounts are displaced confirming that they should be reunited they will require to be reassembled and their fasteners tightened at the positions which are indicated during their removal. During reassembly the total weight of the engine/transmission unit should not be put on the mounts until all the units come into correct alignment over the marks made at the time of removal of the engine/transmission unit, and the mounting bolts must be tightened up to the prescribed torque. In this case, the engine/transmission unit should be lifted slightly off the mounts to reduce the load upon it, and the car in turn should be firmly placed on axle stands. A jack with a block of wood should be placed directly under the oil pan to lift the engine/transmission just enough in order to offload some weight from the mountings. As for the modes of the vehicle operation, the mounts should be inspected for the cracks, the hardened rubber, the separation from the metal parts of the vehicle or the relative movement of the mount brackets relative to the engine/transmission or the body. If there is movement, the motor should be lowered at that point and the fasteners securing it examined and probably tightened. For replacement, the engine should be supported beneath the oil pan with some form of jackstand. The coolant expansion bottle is anchored to the right-hand mount and the mount operational position is marked on the automobile. The locking nuts of the engine casing should be loosened and the retaining bolts to the inner fender panel of the vehicle should be removed to pull-out the mounting with the engine/transmission supported. In assembly all the nuts and bolts must be tightened to the required torque first is the locking nuts to the engine casing then the mounting bracket to inner fender retaining bolts. In the case of the left-hand mount, few modifications are needed; the air intake hose has to be disconnected and the air cleaner assembly has to be taken off. After the transmission is supported, center retaining nut should be turned counter clockwise to be loosened for the removal of the mount and the outer retaining nut for the dismount of the mount in the mounting bracket. The mounting bracket can be removed by the removal of retaining bolts which are tightened on the bracket. At the time of installation, new self-locking nuts must be used, and all the bolts screwed to the required torque. For the rear mount it has to be removed by loosening the center bolt which is on the subframe and on the transmission and when putting it back it has to be tightened to the required torque.

Check the mounts for any cracks, hardened rubber, or separation from the metal.