At the time of writing there were no parts for the ABS hydraulic unit and this had to be replaced as an assembly. First, dis-connect the negative battery terminal and the low brake fluid level warning light multi connector from the brake fluid reservoir, and remove the cap. To unlock the electrical connector from the cap, one has to rip the tab backward and then press the two tabs simultaneously. There are two ways of doing this: either drain the hydraulic fluid by pouring it off from the reservoir by means of an old battery hydrometer or a similar tool, or jack up the car, remove the wheels, unscrew the front bleed nipples and spill off the fluid from the reservoir. Third, unscrew the electrical connector from auxiliary fusebox and unscrew the holding screw; then slide the fusebox down off its bracket and place it to the side, fitting it to the air filter housing position temporarily. In models equipped with the cruise control, refer to the connector at the firewall of the vehicle, pull the cruise control actuator connector, and then remove all the screws of the actuator, and set the actuator aside. Take off the cover from the hydraulic control unit and remove the electrical connector, and thereafter, remove six brake pipes connected with HIU and cap the ending of the pipes and HIU against the inflow of dirt and get the brake lines off from the firewall by removing the retaining clips. Remove the brake pipes off the master cylinder and pull the wiring harness off the suspension tower. Undo the securing bolts of the brake hydraulic unit and pull it out of the firewall being careful not to pull on other parts. Installation is the reverse of removal, the multi-plug is fitted and tightened to ensure it's well connected as well as the brake pipe unions are tightened to the recommended torque. Last of all, bleed hydraulic system and stating that if the air gets into the hydraulic unit, it has to be bled with a help of special test equipment only.