The hood is rather massive and requires certain skills to put on and take off; it is better to rope in at least two people for the process. Start by weighting up the cowl region or the body together with fenders by means of applying blankets or pads in order to prevent scratching of the paint surface when the hood is being removed. But if it has cords or wires connected, remove them in order not to hinder the process. Place marks or draw a line around the hood hinge so that it will act as your guide when you replace the hinge of the hood. First hand, an assistant should be supporting one part of the hood while you support the other, and with your shoulder use the leverage to remove the bolts holding the hinge to the hood. After the hood is removed, installation is done in a manner that is reverse to the removal process. For adjustment, the fore-and-aft and the side-to-side condition can be attained after loosening the bolts and nuts of the hinge plate slot. Write a pencil line around the hinge plate to monitor the movement and then remove the bolts or nuts and move the hood slowly while tightening the hinge bolts before exercising the position again. If fine tuning is required, the whole
Hood Latch assembly can be slid up and down as well as forward and backward on the radiator support to get the desired hood closing position against the fenders. Tape around the above mounting bolts to identify them, loosen them and offer any required adjustability before tightening. Last, the hood bumpers of the radiator support need to be aligned to get the hood perfectly aligned to the fenders when closed and also to have the support of the under
Grilles from the lower bumpers. Apply white lithium-base grease to the hood latch assembly and hinges from time to time to reduce wear and the tendency for them to bind.