Ford 2S7Z-6049-AA Cylinder Head Assembly

The following are the steps that should be followed to remove both cylinder heads while the notes given below apply to cases whereby one cylinder head alone will need to be removed. Again for the rear cylinder head the timing chain, camshafts and the rocker arms can only be taken off while the front head can be left in place. On the other hand, if front head has to be removed then the rear timing has to be brought out so as to remove the front chain; this will enable camshaft and the rocker arm of rear to remain in position. First, depresurize the fuel system and remove the negative terminal from the battery next drain the cooling system and remove upper and lower intake manifolds. Suction out the engine oil and see that the oil pan and the engine front cover are removed. Go on and take off the timing chains, camshafts, rocker arms, and lash adjusters inasmuch as needed, exhaust manifold(s), and water pump with its housing. For models from 2009 and further, you have to take away the upper radiator support brackets, and for all versions, you have to do the same with the oil dipstick and its tube. Exhaust the EGA valve pipe and take out the hoses and connectors attached to the coolant bypass tube and also extract the fasteners holding the tube to prevent it from lodging elsewhere. The cylinder head bolts should now be slackened in the reverse order that was used when tightening, they should then be removed and discarded and replaced with new Torque-to-yield bolts. It is recommended that the cylinder head is withdrawn from the engine block with great precaution so as to avoid scratching the mating surfaces of the head and the block; the old gasket should then be thrown away. When you are about to fit in the new cylinder head make sure that the mating surface is clean and also check for signs of damage. If needed, use shop towel and solvent required to clean the surface areas and make sure that locating dowels are installed, and there are no deposits or rather contamination of bolt holes. Place new gaskets over the dowels and using the previous torque settings fit the cylinder heads in their corresponding places and fit new bolts just enough that they do not go fully tight. Torque level is to be set by leveraging a torque wrench along with an angle gauge and the old bolts are to be discarded because it is a type of torque-to-yield bolt. As for the remaining parts return to the sequence by which they were removed tightening the fasteners to the torque specifications, add fresh oil in the engine and coolant in the cooling system. Connect the battery, turn the engine and bay watch for some time for any signs of leaks, and this way giving the Powertrain Control Module an opportunity to relearn its idle and fuel trim for better performance.

On 2.3L and 2.5L engines, the head bolts are torque-to-yield type and should not be reused; purchase NEW head bolts. On 2008 and earlier models, open the fuel pressure release, disconnect the battery negative terminal, take out the intake duct connected to the air filter housing, disconnect accelerator and cruise control cables if installed, drain the cooling system and remove the timing belt/chain, camshafts, temporarily install the valve cover, disconnect the camshaft position sensor, remove the complete fuel rail and injectors, take out the alternator and its mounting bracket, remove 2009 and later models need to do the following; relieve the fuel system pressure, join the negative battery terminal, lift the car properly with jackstands, drain the cooling system, remove the variable camshaft timing solenoid, remove the timing chain, put marks on the camshafts and bearing caps, remove the camshafts, remove the valve lifters and ensure that you mark them to facilitate reinstallation, remove the intake manifold, remove And starting from the last sequence with which the bolts were tightened, undo each of them by half a turn and while jacking up the cylinder head from the engine compartment be careful not to damage the aluminum alloy employed in its construction. Scrub the surfaces of mating cylinder head and block, making sure that no carbon gets into the oil and water channels and with fingers and thumb, it is advisable to run the surfaces and check for nicks or scratches on them. Clean the contacted surfaces, make sure the locating dowels are set and the cylinder head bolt holes have no contact with oil or water. Choose a new head gasket depending the number located on the front face of the cylinder block, position it appropriately, and reinstall the crankshaft pulley, but before tightening of the bolts the Number 1 cylinder must be lowered to prevent impact with the valves. Engine guide studs help in the positioning of the cylinder head, then NEW head bolts that should have a light oil on the threads are tightened progressively as indicated below. In the 2.0L engine, tighten the bolts through the angle not the torque, for 2.3L & 2.5L engines follow live tightening stage & then use angle torque method on the last two stages. It is crucial to position the crankshaft back to its TDC before embarking on the installation of other components which is simply a reverse of the removal process; the catalytic converter complete with new gaskets, camshafts and timing belt/chain should then be fitted and tightened to manufacturer recommended torque; hoses, wirings and others components need to be routed correctly; the cooling system should be refilled to the recommended level; and the vehicle should After battery connection, Powertrain Control Module has to be put again on learning mode for idle and fuel trim.