Ford E3TZ-1225-AA Ball Bearing Assembly

For 1987 and earlier models with a Dana axle, begin by raising the rear of the vehicle and securing it on jackstands. Remove the axleshafts, then take out the locking wedge from the adjusting nut keyway slot using a screwdriver, ensuring this is done before removing or turning the adjusting nut. Loosen the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the appropriate large socket. While rotating the hub/drum assembly, tighten the adjusting nut to 120 to 140 ft-lbs, then back it off to achieve 0.001 to 0.010 inch endplay, which should require about 1/8 to 3/8 of a turn. Position the locking wedge in the keyway and hammer it into place, ensuring it is fully seated against the shoulder of the adjusting nut. The locking wedge and adjusting nut can be reused if the wedge cuts a new groove in the nylon retainer material; otherwise, replace them if damage is evident. After installing the axleshaft, check the lubricant level in the differential and add if necessary, then test drive the vehicle and check for leaks. For 1987 and later models with a Ford axle, use a hub nut wrench to engage the four slots in the hub nut and loosen it, noting that the hub nuts have different thread directions for right and left hubs. Tighten the hub nut to 55 to 65 ft-lbs while rotating the hub, then back it off, listening for clicks-five clicks for new bearings and eight for used ones. Install the axleshaft, check the lubricant level in the differential, and test drive the vehicle to check for leaks.

To remove the axleshaft, first take it out of the vehicle. If the wheel bearing needs replacement, the bearing cup, which typically stays in the axle housing when the axleshaft is removed, must also be replaced using a slide hammer-type puller. Before replacing the wheel bearing or seal, the inner retainer ring must be removed without using heat, as it could damage the axleshaft. Drill a hole of 1/4 to 1/2-inch diameter in the outer diameter of the inner retainer, approximately 3/4 of the thickness of the retainer ring, ensuring not to drill all the way through to avoid damaging the axleshaft. After drilling, use a chisel across the drilled hole and strike it sharply to split the retainer ring. Since a hydraulic press and various adapters are needed to remove the wheel bearing, it is advisable to take the axleshaft(s) to an automotive machine shop or parts store equipped for this task. For vehicles with tapered roller axle bearings, ensure the axleshaft retaining plate and seal are installed before pressing the new bearing and retainer ring onto the shaft. Once the new bearing is pressed onto the axleshaft, reinstall the axleshaft.

First of all, when changing brake pads or jacking up the front wheel, the front wheel bearings of 2WD models need attention. To check them, secure the vehicle on jack stands and spin the wheel to listen for noise, feel for resistance, and detect "free play". If excess movement is found, check, repack, or replace bearings. Remove the hub cap and wheel, disconnect the brake caliper, and clean and inspect the bearings. Also, apply high-temperature wheel bearing grease and reassemble and tighten the spindle nut. For 4WD models follow specific maintenance intervals and check, repack spindle, and knuckle needle bearings as necessary.

You should inspect front wheel bearings only while you lift the car for brake pad changes. Either way, they need attention when the front of your car goes up. There are specific tools you need for this job: a torque wrench and special grease. Begin by first lifting the vehicle on jack stands, then check the wheel with three main tests - listening for noise while spinning, noting how hard it takes to spin, and looking for unexpected movement when you push and pull the wheel. Before lifting your vehicle, turn off the Automatic Ride Control air suspension switch to avoid harming the car. Mark pressure the wheel, and when you feel movement, it's time to check and maybe fix your hub bearings with grease or new bearings. Take off the wheel and brake caliper, being careful not to let the caliper hang through its rubber connection. After 1995, take out the mount for the brake caliper when you replace it. Pull the cap off first, remove the straightened cotter pin, and throw it away. Take the retainer, its adjusting nut, and flat washer off the spindle. Give the hub assembly a gentle bump forward, then push it all the way back to break free the outer bearing. Started by sliding the hub off the bearing post. Insert a flat metal bar underneath the hub to lift the seal taking care to remember the seal's insertion location off the backside. Clean the wheel bearings and hub by dissolving grease with solvent, allowing every part to air dry without rinsing. Check the bearings for cracks, look for discoloration from too much heat, and see if they show signs of wear; you also need to check if the races are damaged; if any races are defective, replacements must be done by a professional. Put in plenty of high-temperature grease for front wheel bearings, work it thoroughly within both bearings. Snip a thin layer of grease onto the spindle. Spread a tiny amount of grease inside both bearings' raceways within the hub. Place the hub on the axle, push the greasy inner bearing into place, add more grease, and put a new seal covering it, pressing it down to match the surface. Line up the hub assembly over the spindle, use a small push to place the thickly-lubricated outer bearing where it belongs, and fasten the flat and adjustment nuts loosely on top. Position the hub and turn it around to let the bearings get the right placement and clean up any extra grease or sharp edges. While spinning the wheel, increase tightening on the nut until it reaches its correct torque, then screw it back off half a turn. Screw the nut tight again to the recommended torque level. Add a new cotter pin, then adjust the retainer so its holes match up. Before trimming, press down the two cotter pin ends to flatten them against the nut. After putting in place the cap filled with grease, attach the caliper, and lock the wheel onto the hub with lug nuts, tightening them until they reach the right torque. After that, make sure to follow the same bearing inspection steps and lower the car.

Disengage the axleshaft of the housing and the oil seal as well. You will require a bearing puller, which can be defined as an axleshaft bearing removal tool, which can easily be bought from shops dealing in automotive tools. To be able to get the axle bearing removed, you will require a bearing removal tool that is connected to a slide hammer which is then inserted through the middle of it and with this pull it up to the back side and just apply force by use of the slide hammer so as to get the bearing taken off the axle housing. Fit a slide hammer on and extract the bearing from the axle housing. Remove debris in the bearing recess and fit in a new bearing using a bearing driver or a large socket and make sure that correct size of the driver is used to fine the bearing on the housing. Apply gear lubricant to the new bearing and ensure that it is settled into the surface of the bearing to its maximum limit. The old oil seal must be removed and a new one fitted and then the axleshaft is fitted in its proper place.

To remove the axleshaft, first loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands, and remove the rear wheels. Next, remove the rear brake drums and clean all dirt from the area surrounding the carrier cover. Drain the differential lubricant and remove the differential shaft lock-bolt and differential pinion shaft, noting that on Traction-Lok differentials, the preload spring does not need to be removed. Push the axleshafts toward the center of the vehicle and remove the C-locks from the button end of the axleshafts, being careful not to drop them or damage the rubber O-ring in the groove under the C-lock. Carefully remove the axleshafts from the housing, ensuring the oil seal is not damaged. For oil seal and bearing replacement, insert a rear axle bearing remover attached to a slide hammer into the bore of the bearing and withdraw the bearing and oil seal as a unit. Clean the rear axle housing bore thoroughly, lubricate the new bearing with rear axle lubricant, and install it using an axle bearing driver tool or a large socket, tapping it in until it reaches the full depth of its recess without damaging the inner bearing race. Apply multi-purpose grease between the lips of the axleshaft seal and install a new axleshaft seal using an installation tool or a large socket, ensuring it is not installed incorrectly to avoid damage. For axleshaft installation, ensure the rubber O-ring is in the groove at the end of the axleshaft, then carefully insert the axle into the housing and install the C-lock on the button end, pushing the shaft out until the C-lock seals in the counter bore of the differential side gear. Position the differential pinion shaft through the case and pinion gears, aligning the hole in the shaft with the lock-bolt hole, apply thread locking compound to the lock-bolt, install it, and tighten to the specified torque. Clean the gasket mounting surface on the rear axle housing and cover, apply a continuous bead of silicone sealant, and install the cover and bolts, tightening them in a criss-cross pattern to the specified torque. Refill the axle with the correct quantity and grade of lubricant, install the brake drums, then install the wheels and lug nuts, and finally lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the specified value.

Remove the axleshaft and the oil seal. A bearing puller will be required or a tool which will engage behind the bearing will have to be fabricated. Use a slide hammer and puller attachment to remove the axleshaft bearing. Attach a slide hammer and pull the bearing out of the axle housing. Clean out the bearing recess and drive in the new bearing with a bearing driver. A correctly sized bearing driver must be used to drive the bearing into the housing. Lubricate the new bearing with gear lubricant. Make sure that the bearing is tapped into the full depth of its recess. Discard the old oil seal and install a new one, then install the axleshaft.