They have suggested to pull the transmission, make sure that the vehicle is properly jacked and supported by jackstands and then can proceed to the pull. Where there are, it is advisable to change the front pump seal or O-ring for automatic transmissions at this stage. For cars with manual gearbox consider removing the pressure plate and clutch disc and may opted for inspection or replacement of clutch parts as well as the pilot bearing. It is recommended to noting positions on the flywheel or driveplate and crankshaft with the center punch or paint so it could be easily matched again during the final assembling. Freeway bolts securing the or driveplate to the crankshaft; if turning the crankshaft causes the flywheel to run, place the blade of a screwdriver between the flywheel and its ring gear teeth to lock the flywheel. Lovely, to ease removal take out the last bolt supporting the flywheel or driveplate and you notice that the automatic transmission has a spacer in-between the crankshaft and the driveplate. For installation, remove all grease and oil from flywheel before examining it for cracks, rivet groves, burned or scored areas, while light scoring can be gently rubbed out using emery cloth. You should then ensure that none of the ring gear teeth is cracked or broken and that the flywheel does not have a warp by using a straight edge to do this. Check condition of mating surfaces of flywheel or driveplate and crankshaft and, if the seal is leaking, renew the crankshaft rear seal prior to refitting. Now place the flywheel or driveplate on the crankshaft aligning it with some marks previously made and you may discover that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes of this. Dip the bolt threads in thread-locking compound and use a screwdriver to jam the ring gear teeth before tightening the bolt using precisely the right sequence to the locktight torque. The procedures that remain include the reverse of the procedure used to remove the installation as shown below.