The cylinder head bolts on all engines are "torque-to-yield bolts" and are not reusable. They must be replaced after being removed (to ensure the cylinder seals). In the same manner, the V6 connecting rod bolts/nuts are also "torque-to-yield" and must be discarded after dismantling. It is a good idea to mount the engine in a portable engine stand for easy disassembly while also being maintainable at a cheap and affordable rent. In the absence of a stand, the engine can be blocked up on the floor for disassembly, but care must be taken not to tip or drop it. When getting a rebuilt engine, you need to remove all external pieces for transfer to the new engine such as the alternator, emissions control parts, camshaft position sensor, spark plug wires, thermostat, water pump, EFI parts, intake/exhaust manifold, oil filter, engine mount, drive plate, engine rear plate, and crankshaft damper. When removing these parts, pay careful attention to the placement of the gaskets, seals and other small items so that you can replace them correctly. If you are getting a short block you will also need to remove the cylinder head(s) oil pan and oil pump. The first things to remove when replacing an engine are the drive plate , valve covers , intake manifold , exhaust manifold, rocker arms , push rods , camshafts , valve lifters , vibration damper , timing chain cover , timing components , cylinder heads , oil pan , oil pump, jack shaft , balance shaft assembly , piston/connecting rod assemblies, and crankshaft and main bearings. It is important to have a supply of hand tools on hand before you start disassembly and overhaul. Store small things in containers. You will need a gasket scraper, ridge reamer and vibration damper puller. Obtain two micrometers and telescoping gauges. A set of dial indicators is required as well as a valve spring compressor. Obtain a cylinder surfacing hone as well as a piston ring groove cleaner. Finally get an electric drill motor, tap and die set, wire brushes, oil gallery brushes and cleaning solvent.
