Ford FOZZ-8501-A Water Pump Assembly

Unplug the battery cable from its negative connection. With the engine cold, drain the cooling system. For all models from 1997 and before, take off the fan shroud and fan unit. Pull off the drivebelts and water pump pulley. When the power steering pump goes on the engine, remove the pump entirely and safely set it down before you can take out the bracket at the water pump. Before starting, take off both parts - the idler pulley that hangs on the air conditioning bracket. Get rid of all supporting brackets that attach to the water pump. To get at the OHV water pump, loosen gripping bands and twist hoses connected to it to pull them free from their pump attachments. On some models and years, the heater and bypass hoses do not directly connect to the water pump. Remove these hoses only if removing the pump requires it. Before taking out the bolts holding the water pump, make a mental note of where the bolts of different lengths are now installed. Also record where bolts have studs attached to them. To take the water pump off the engine block of an OHC engine, you need to remove those four bolts and pull it straight out. Take away and wash all gasket or sealant material from the water pump, cylinder front cover, or cylinder block before installation, being cautious not to damage the water pump's aluminum body. On engines with OHC design, check if dirt or debris stuck to the water pump O-ring and its housing seal in the block. Replace the O-ring and clean both surfaces in the blocked cavity before installation. For OHV engines, put new gaskets on the water pump and apply RTV sealant on both sides. First coat the gasket before sliding on the clean O-ring which you lubricate with fresh antifreeze. Some hose ports and connection pieces need to be moved over when switching to a new water pump. On OHV engines with water pump front covers, remember to install both sides of a new gasket or sealant on the separating plate as you assemble. When keeping the original water pump, take off the plate and install a fresh gasket to stop coolant from entering both the timing chain cover and oil pan. Carefully put the water pump into place, and snug down all bolts to meet the advised tightness. On OHV engines, put the lower radiator hose, heater hose, and bypass hose onto the water pump. While doing so, replace worn-out hose clamps with new ones. Put the water pump parts back onto the engine in the same steps you used to remove them. Add the correct coolant content into the cooling cycle. Running the engine and watching for any leaks is important. Keep checking the coolant level for the first few weeks as the system settles.

To check a water pump, warm up the engine and squeeze the upper radiator hose. A pressure surge indicates a working pump. Look for coolant leaks from the pump's weep hole, which suggest immediate replacement to avoid shaft bearing failure. Listen for noise from the pump during operation, as this also indicates bearing failure and need for replacement. Check for bearing wear by trying to move the pump pulley; any movement means the pump should be replaced.

Unplug the battery cable from its negative connection. With the engine cold, drain the cooling system. For all models from 1997 and before, take off the fan shroud and fan unit. Pull off the drivebelts and water pump pulley. When the power steering pump goes on the engine, remove the pump entirely and safely set it down before you can take out the bracket at the water pump. Before starting, take off both parts - the idler pulley that hangs on the air conditioning bracket. Get rid of all supporting brackets that attach to the water pump. To get at the OHV water pump, loosen gripping bands and twist hoses connected to it to pull them free from their pump attachments. On some models and years, the heater and bypass hoses do not directly connect to the water pump. Remove these hoses only if removing the pump requires it. Before taking out the bolts holding the water pump, make a mental note of where the bolts of different lengths are now installed. Also record where bolts have studs attached to them. To take the water pump off the engine block of an OHC engine, you need to remove those four bolts and pull it straight out. Take away and wash all gasket or sealant material from the water pump, cylinder front cover, or cylinder block before installation, being cautious not to damage the water pump's aluminum body. On engines with OHC design, check if dirt or debris stuck to the water pump O-ring and its housing seal in the block. Replace the O-ring and clean both surfaces in the blocked cavity before installation. For OHV engines, put new gaskets on the water pump and apply RTV sealant on both sides. First coat the gasket before sliding on the clean O-ring which you lubricate with fresh antifreeze. Some hose ports and connection pieces need to be moved over when switching to a new water pump. On OHV engines with water pump front covers, remember to install both sides of a new gasket or sealant on the separating plate as you assemble. When keeping the original water pump, take off the plate and install a fresh gasket to stop coolant from entering both the timing chain cover and oil pan. Carefully put the water pump into place, and snug down all bolts to meet the advised tightness. On OHV engines, put the lower radiator hose, heater hose, and bypass hose onto the water pump. While doing so, replace worn-out hose clamps with new ones. Put the water pump parts back onto the engine in the same steps you used to remove them. Add the correct coolant content into the cooling cycle. Running the engine and watching for any leaks is important. Keep checking the coolant level for the first few weeks as the system settles.

Reinstall all parts that were removed for access to the pump. Refill the cooling system and check the drivebelt tension, then run the engine and check for leaks.