Disconnect the battery cable from the negative battery terminal. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transmission. If it's leaking, now would be a very good time to have the automatic transmission front pump seal/O-ring replaced. Look for factory paint marks that indicate Flywheel-to-crankshaft alignment. If they aren't there, use paint or a center-punch to make alignment marks on the Flywheel and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during reinstallation. Remove the bolts that secure the Flywheel to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns, wedge a screwdriver through the starter opening to jam the Flywheel. Note: The Flywheel can also be held in place, with the help of an assistant, by using a socket and breaker bar on the damper bolt at the front end of the crankshaft. Remove the Flywheel from the crankshaft. Since the Flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt. Clean the Flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for warpage. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the Flywheel and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the Flywheel. Position the Flywheel against the crankshaft. Be sure to align the marks made during removal. Note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation. Before installing the bolts, apply Teflon pipe sealant to the threads. Wedge a screwdriver through the starter motor opening to keep the Flywheel from turning as you tighten the bolts. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.